Ared soldierfish, sheltered in a crevice, is looking bashfully at me with big doll eyes, like a wee escapee from a Japanese anime film. Then silvery trumpet fish with Pinnochio noses shimmy past. I am hovering above a gloriously alive coral reef in my wetsuit, blowing bubbles and loving the sensation of weightlessness again after a hiatus of long years from scuba diving. Raja Ampat, meaning Four Kings, is a quartet of islands (Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati and Misool) on Indonesia’s far e … [Read more...]